Basic Testing 

The following testing allows us to gain an objective measure of your physical profile as a climber. We can spot any strengths, weaknesses and areas for improvement as well as record a bench mark to measure progress.

Aim to complete the testing when well rested, after at least 1 rest day. Take note of your general mood, quality of recent sleep, and any other training or life stresses that might influence your performance, this allows us to control, compare and look back if repeating the testing in the future. 

Complete your testing before any other climbing and training but after a warm-up.

If possible weigh yourself directly before the session, so we can see the total load on exercises that involve your body weight. Doing so right before the session is important because a previous weight from the morning or another time will not reflect your current mass with the addition of the clothes you’re wearing or the water and food in your system. 

If you have any concerns over any of the exercises, for instance, if you’ve never tried them before then don’t stress. See what you can do and complete whatever you feel comfortable with, this will still give us valuable metrics to improve upon.

Max Hang Test

This test looks to measure finger strength by finding the maximum load you can apply through your fingers for a 5-second period on a medium sized 1 pad edge. 

Use a half crimp grip position (proximal finger joint flexed at 90 degrees) with 2 arms on a 20-25mm edge ideally beast maker 1000 or lattice edge. 

Add weight to yourself using a dipping belt or harness (less optimal) until you find your max for a 5-second hang.

If you are not able to hang at body weight then use a pulley system with counter weight clipped to your harness so that you can take off load and record the amount of weight you needed to take off to complete a 5-second hang.

Record body weight, added weight, and a rating of perceived exertion /10 

Repeaters test

This test looks to test your ability to apply a sub-maximal load intermittently as well as your ability to recover. 

Hang for 10 seconds then take 5 seconds off, repeating till failure. 

Complete the test on the same edge and grip position for the max hang test but using 60% of the total load.

Total load is the sum of your body weight and your added load. For example, if a climber weighs 60KG and adds 40kg for their 5-second max hang then the total load is 100kg, 60% of this would be 60kg so they would complete the testing using their bodyweight. 

If your total load is less than your body weight then use a pulley system with counter weight clipped to your harness so that you can take the load off to be working at 60%.

Take 10 minutes rest after your max hangs testing session before completing the repeaters.

Record total number of 10 second reps completed and if you fail mid-hang record the seconds completed on the final hang. 

Pull up testing

To measure basic upper body pulling strength.

Complete a pull up with the maximum mount of added load in which you can still complete 1 rep

Use a pull up bar or big jugs on a fingerboard. 

Record body weight, added weight and a rating of perceived exertion /10 

Bench press and deadlift

To measure body strength with 3 rep max deadlifts and bench press.

Add load until you find your max for a 3 rep max. 

Ideally, find a spotter for the bench press or use safety racks on a bar. If you don’t feel confident on either of these exercises just do what you feel comfortable with.

Record weight used including the bar (most Olympic barbells weigh 20kg)